Issue: 2.06 | June 1, 2001 | by:
Terence Neilan
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Buddhism Blooms Amid the Forests of the Catskills Until six years ago, James Frechter rose at 9 each morning, put on a dark
suit and the mandatory tie and took the subway to Wall Street to begin another
long day as an associate lawyer with Stroock & Stroock & Lavan. Nowadays, he is up by 4 a.m. in the Dai Bosatsu Zendo, an hour before a young
monk wakes the rest of the monastery by walking through the corridors clanging a
hand bell. Mr. Frechter, now a monk who answers to the name Kigen, has by that
time already donned a kimono and a thin set of robes and headed to a hall in the
predawn darkness to lead fellow monks and visitors in zazen, or sitting
meditation. But Kigen, 36, did not need to move to Asia to live out his transformation.
The monastery he has embraced is just three hours north of New York City. Major Buddhist centers have spread throughout the wooded hills and valleys of
the Catskills. And, academics and others say, the Buddhist presence is steadily
growing, both in the number of centers and in the increasing variety of their
traditions. "The borscht belt has become the Buddhist belt," said Melvin McCleod,
the editor of The Shambhala Sun, a leading Buddhist magazine. The borscht belt was in fact well past its glory days when Dai Bosatsu,
nestled under forested mountains and partly shaded from view by trees beside a
large, clear lake, opened here in 1976. Soon after, a number of Buddhist centers
followed in scattered areas across the Catskills, far beyond the heart of the
belt, bounded roughly by Route 52 in the north and Route 17 in the south. Kigen, raised in Forest Hills as a non-practicing Jew, began his path to the
Catskills in his mid-20's, when he realized that the stress of his job was
leaving him far from satisfied. "I was well paid but unhappy," he said recently, "and I visited countries in
Asia where people had much less than I did but were contented with their lives."
Now one of his duties at the monastery is to act as its business manager,
concerned with daily finances as well as the monastery's long-term financial
well-being. "But don't get the impression that life in the monastery is any kind
of escape from the concerns of day-to-day life," he said. "It teaches us to meet
life as it comes at us minute by minute and to use that as an opportunity for
practice." Buddhism is hardly new to the United States, and a similarly diverse pocket
of sanghas, or communities, flourishes, for example, in the San Francisco
Bay area. But experts use words like hotbed and astonishing to describe the
developments in the Catskills, where academics and temple residents say new
centers have been popping up at an increasing rate in recent years. "If the world survives another 500 years, the Catskills will be a pilgrimage
place for the United States and Europe," said C. W. Huntington Jr., an assistant
professor of religious studies at Hartwick College in Oneonta who led a seminar
last year titled "Buddhism in the Catskills." And large groups of these pilgrims
now attending retreats and other activities in the Catskills also find people
coming from Asia and Australia. Some of America's most well-regarded and important Buddhist centers make
their home in the Catskills, said Mr. McCleod, whose magazine is published every
two months and is circulated throughout North America. "Three places come to mind: the Zen Mountain Monastery in Mount Tremper, the
Karma Triyana Dharmachakra in Woodstock and the International Dai Bosatsu Zendo
at Livingston Manor," he said. Many experts point to the mix of different schools and traditions — from
Japan, Korea, China and Tibet — concentrated in one area as the most significant
and unusual aspect of Buddhism in the region. "It's really wonderful and quite astonishing what's happening in the
Catskills, particularly among Zen and Tibetan schools," said William K. McKeever,
who began sitting meditation in the Tibetan tradition 33 years ago at Yale. "It's not a casual interest by those who go to the temples and monasteries,"
added Mr. McKeever, who recently left his executive position with the Asia
Society in Manhattan to become president of the Deer Park Foundation, a
nonprofit group focused on Buddhism in the contemporary world. "The Catskills
have become a hot bed for people to sit on their cushions and actually practice
meditation," he said. Other experts welcome what they see as a new level of acceptance that
Buddhism seems to have attained. "When you have the Dalai Lama appearing in ads
for Apple computers you know it's not considered so weird anymore," said Tendo
Tim Lacy, 38, a monk at Dai Bosatsu. Guo-yuan Fa Shi, abbott of the Dharma Drum retreat in Pine Bush, said that
just a few years ago, people would stare as he walked around New York City in
his robes — black in winter, gray in summer, brown for special occasions. But
these days, he said, "people often bow to me and show more respect." The Buddhists have certainly captured the respect of real estate agents.
Frank Lumia, an agent in Delhi, about 40 miles north of here, says he prizes the
Buddhists because of their commitment to the environment and because they buy
and then renovate their properties. "They make excellent neighbors," he said.
Merchants also attest to the economic boost provided by their new neighbors. The
Zen monastery here, for example, looks to local farmers' markets when it has to
feed upward of 100 people, and to the local Sam's Club for other supplies. For although the centers' aims are spiritual, they are set up in the
Catskills in part for down-to-earth reasons: land is relatively cheap and it is
close to New York City. And the hills and forests provide the serene setting
that Buddhists have always sought for contemplation. A number of the Catskills' Buddhist centers were established as country
retreats for their main bases in the city, including those set up by Asian
immigrants who wanted to preserve their practice and culture. New York City and
the surrounding areas also provide a ready population to draw upon for new
members, who, through donations and retreat fees, help to keep the centers
going. On July 4, Dai Bosatsu will celebrate the 25th anniversary of establishing a
center on 1,400 acres that were paid for by Dorris Carlson, the widow of Chester
Carlson, who invented the process that brought the world Xerox. The Carlsons had
an interest in Eastern philosophy and religions. They also wanted to help
transmit the Buddhist message, particularly the one taught by Eido Shimano Roshi,
a Zen master. Dai Bosatsu's city base is a converted East 67th Street carriage
house that was bought as a center for Eido Roshi by Mr. Carlson, who died four
days after its dedication on Sept. 15, 1968. Dai Bosatsu's Catskills building, modeled on a Zen temple in Kyoto, looks as
if it was brought straight from Japan and simply dropped beside Beecher Lake.
The Zen Mountain Monastery, a former Catholic and Lutheran center, on about 250
acres, was founded 20 years ago. Karma Triyana Dharmachakra in Woodstock, built
on about 22 acres in the colorful and decorative traditional Tibetan style,
opened in 1978. It is the North American seat of the Karmapa, the teenage leader
of the Kagyu school, one of the four main branches of Tibetan Buddhism. The
Karmapa fled Tibet for India in 1999, and his arrival in Woodstock is eagerly
awaited as a major event. Newer centers include the Dharma Drum retreat, opened in July 1997, but still
a work in progress. It is part of a worldwide group based in Taiwan with a city
center in Elmhurst, Queens. Perhaps the newest of all is the Sky Lake Lodge,
which opened in mid-May in Rosendale, south of Woodstock. But getting a handle
on the exact number of Buddhist centers in the region is like trying to solve a
koan, the traditional riddle that Zen masters give their students to
contemplate. Jeff Wilson, the author of "The Buddhist Guide to New York," published late
last year, listed 16 centers. But anecdotal evidence suggests that the number is
closer to 25 or more. Other estimates put the number at 40. The short answer is
that nobody really knows. There is no all-embracing Buddhist organization
keeping count, and the sleepy hollows, winding dirt roads and forested, almost
secretive acres of the Catskills seem designed to hide many such places from
view. For Majo Sugimoto, 34, the road to Livingston Manor began in Vienna, where he
was brought up as a Christian. He came to New York in 1989 to improve his
playing as a jazz pianist and learned about Zen. In 1991, he went back to Vienna
and, inspired by his Zen practice, he says, switched from studying music to
psychology. He recently received a doctorate from the University of Vienna,
combining his studies there with occasional retreats at Dai Bosatsu. On Thursday, he will be ordained at Dai Bosatsu as a monk, and will start his
1,000 days of training. All of us have "questions that we have to answer before we die," he said.
"Through Zen practice it might be possible to answer them." |
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Terence Neilan is a journalist in New York |
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